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WHETHER you want to grab one on the go or make it the centrepiece of a dinner fit for a king, what could be more comforting in the depths of the British winter than a hot, wholesome, hearty pie?

Today is National Pie Day, and nine in ten of us reckon pies are an important meal, with around 165million of them made and more than £1billion spent on them last year.

Man in chef's jacket eating pies.
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Blur bassist and Sun foodie Alex James tries a selection of pies with a mix of traditional and modern fillingsCredit: Oliver Dixon

While steak is the nation’s favourite filling, followed by chicken, a report by pie maker Higgidy shows the rise of vegan and vegetarian diets, with veggie fillings now in third place.

Plus there are new flavours to challenge the old favourites, including full English breakfast and smoked haddock and cider.

Pretty much anything is fair game for a pie filling and, as with all popular foods, the range in quality is phenomenal.

A good pie is one of life’s great pleasures.

READ MORE TASTE TESTS

So here, Blur bassist and Sun foodie Alex James tries a selection of pies with a mix of traditional and modern fillings, then scores each out of five.

Pieminister Mooless Moo jackfruit steak, craft ale and black pepper

270g, £4.70, Ocado

Pieminister Mooless Moo Jack Fruit, Craft Ale & Black Pepper Pie package.
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This pie is veganCredit: Oliver Dixon

THE casing of this jackfruit steak, craft ale and black pepper pie is remarkably flaky – I don’t think you would know it was vegan pastry if no one told you.

It’s brimming full of meaty-looking goop that has a pleasing Monster Munch twang and you really taste the 11 per cent beer – so maybe not one for Dry Januarists.

It’s remarkable how “meaty” this is.

But there’s a not- too-pleasing lingering ­aftertaste of onion powder.

Nonethe­less, vegans can rejoice.

RATING: 3/5

A Scottish baker has launched a pastry fit for a kebab king - The Big Daddy Donner Pie

Sainsbury’s Minced Beef and Onion

150g, £1.25

Sainsburys minced beef and onion puff pastry pie.
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Sainsbury's offer an affordable pieCredit: Oliver Dixon

A STEAL at £1.25. I like the packaging, too – all the other pies come in unnecessary “boasting boxes”.

The pastry is just a little on the dry side (a knob of butter on a warm one would fix that), but the filling has a decent savoury kick and plenty of Bovril-like heft.

This offers a really decent bang for not much buck at all.

Highly grabbable and it would totally hit the spot with a steaming hot cuppa around lunchtime.

If you’ve got time to sit down, add some salad leaves to soak up those juices.

RATING: 4/5

Higgidy Roasted Sweet Potato, Spinach and Feta Pie

200g, £3.75, Waitrose

Higgidy Roasted Sweet Potato, Spinach & Feta Pie with Aleppo chilli.
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This pie has a unique fillingCredit: Oliver Dixon

ALTHOUGH the cheaper of the two veggie picks, this is still quite pricey.

However, the ingredients list reveals it’s an all-butter pastry and contains a variety of actual foods, rather than a long list of flavour enhancers and preservatives.

There are satisfying layers of texture in the wonderfully tasty filling – those real ingredients shine through.

Purists might argue a pie should have a lid, but the open top makes it look pretty on the table – and a bit lighter for all of us who join­ed the gym this month.

Perfect with a glass of fizz.

RATING: 5/5

Pukka Minced Beef and Onion

215g, £2, Asda

Pukka minced beef and onion pie box.
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The filling in this pie is 50% airCredit: Oliver Dixon

KEENLY priced at just two quid for a good-sized, good-looking pie, but unfortunately looks are deceiving in this case.

Removing the lid reveals that the filling is about 50 per cent air.

The pastry has a good taste, but is a ­little on the chewy side.

Sadly, the air is the nicest bit of the filling, which had a gristly texture and reminded me of a bad school dinner.

But always good for a hangover, I guess.

RATING: 2/5

Charlie Bigham’s Chicken and Mushroom Fresh Pastry Pie

270g, £5, Waitrose

Illustration of Charlie Bigham's Chicken & Mushroom Fresh Pastry Pie box.
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This pie needs a while to cookCredit: Oliver Dixon

THE price tag makes this a luxury option, but it needs half an hour cooking – so not a convenience pick.

A fine piquant filling, it tastes just like a home-made pie but, if you’re going to spend £5 and wait while it cooks, you’re better off buying a roll of ready-made pastry, a tin of chicken soup and adding some leftover cooked chicken and a handful of frozen peas to make your own.

If you’re a pie fan, a roll of ready-made pastry is a really good buy – you can turn leftovers into pies with great ease.

RATING: 2/5

Waitrose Chicken and Mushroom Pie

200g, £2.75

Waitrose Chicken & Mushroom Pie box.
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The filling in this pie is deliciousCredit: Oliver Dixon

A LITTLE bland, the pastry lacked a bit of seasoning, but that’s easily fixed – and it was full to the brim with delicious filling.

A solid winter warmer – pies are better served hot, obviously.

In fact, this ­handsome beast is almost big enough to share for a candlelit winter diner à deux.

It’s crying out for chips, mushy peas and a glass of beer.

RATING: 4/5

Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Ultimate Steak Pie

250g, £4

Sainsbury's Ultimate Steak Pie: beef, smoked bacon, red wine filling, flaky pastry.
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Sainsbury’'s offer a chunky old pie with nice flaky pastry and plenty of thick gravy in the fillingCredit: Sainsbury’s

ULTIMATE is a pretty big claim, but it is certainly OK – a chunky old pie with nice flaky pastry and plenty of thick gravy in the filling.

Would be perfect with a handful of tomatoes and some fresh basil leaves on a bright lunch time.

Even better on a dark and stormy night, along with a pile of buttery mash and a glass of Guinness.

RATING: 4/5

Higgidy Slow-Braised Steak and Craft Ale Pie

200g, £3.75, Sainsbury’s

Higgidy Slow-Braised Steak & Craft Ale Pie with carrots.
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This pie tastes rich and smells fragrantCredit: Oliver Dixon

NICELY layered pastry with satisfying smacks of ­cayenne pepper.

The filling looks appetising, with proper chunks of steak rather than standard fare mince.

It tastes rich and smells fragrant.

Read More on The Sun

This is a premium pie that would be great in the ­evening in front of the telly with some cauliflower cheese and a glass of fat red.

RATING: 4/5

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